GARMENT GALLERY 2019-2021
ARCTIC SKY VEST
2021
Handwoven 8 shaft twill variation, wool, cotton, synthetic. Leftover fabric from the 2009 jacket of the same name. Wool Bouclé lining and trim. Welt Pockets.
Vest pattern from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection, #800 Zippered Vest with Collar
VINTAGE REVISITED VEST
2021
Vintage handspun and handwoven twill fabric woven by my mother-in-law, Margaret Lancaster, cut from a full length skirt. Wool Challis lining and trim from a vintage shawl from my mother, Kitty Anderson. Wool
Vest pattern from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection, #800 Zippered Vest with Collar
ANTIQUE JEWELS SWING DRESS
2021
Swing dress from handwoven fabric, rayon, cotton with wool crepe weft. Back zipper and side pockets. Original 4 shaft draft. Draft available as a free PDF download here.
Dress pattern from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection, #1000 Swing Dress
COMPLEX WANDERINGS PIECED VEST 2021
Pieced vest from scraps of handwoven fabric, 8 shaft twill variation from Carol Strickler's book of 8 shaft Patterns. Cotton, rayon, silk. Additional pieced elements include a silk jacquard and a raw silk, and pieces of a dyed leather skin. Binding strips and piping are a wool/poly suiting. Quilted onto a punch needle fleece. Lined with a painted silk from Thai Silks. #500 Vest from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection.
Handwoven and handdyed wool and loop mohair coat with wool weft. Twill variation loosely based on a draft from Handwoven Magazine, Issue 171, Sept/Oct 2014. The article, "Bright Herringbone Twill Towels" was authored by Linda Gettman.
Warps were handdyed in small batches in a crock pot with Cushing Acid Dyes. Fully lined with a vintage silk kimono. #200 Jacket from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection. The coat has shoulder epaulettes in a contrasting wool, and welt pockets. Interrupted piping forms button loops, with stacked buttons.
SHADOW TAPESTRY 2021
Handwoven 8 shaft shadow weave. Warp and weft are alternating variegated chenille and Cotton/bambu from Silk City Fibers. A draft of this weave structure is available for free here.
Vest has vintage woven alpaca pile trim, it is lined with a vintage silk blouse, and the yoke is piped with caviar leather. The button is a vintage polyform class pin converted to a button. #500 Vest from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection.
NORO FLOWER GARDEN 2020
Handwoven 4 shaft Finnish Twill from Davison's Handweaver's Pattern Book. Warp combination of Oregon Worsted Maypole Nehalem, 100% Virgin Worsted, and Harrisville Shetland Singles 100% Shetland wool. Weft, Noro Taiyo Lace, 50% Cotton, 17% Wool, 17% Polyamide, 16% Silk. Crocheted edges. Variation of the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection 100 jacket. Jacket variation tutorial on Youtube channel, The Weaver Sews, How to Combine Pattern Elements.
CONFETTI VEST 2020
Handwoven 4 shaft original draft, cotton, rayon from bamboo, rayon, nylon, polyamide. All yarns are from Silk City Fibers. Fabric quilted onto punch needle fleece, lined and trimmed with a vintage leopard coat. Welt pockets and button closures, loop ties are Scunci hair elastics. 800 Zippered Vest with Collar from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection. Draft available as a free download. Welt Pocket variation pattern and directions available for purchase
SUMMER RAIN TOP 2020
Handwoven 8 shaft original combination weave, viscose rayon, rayon from bamboo, cotton, linen, polyamide. All yarns are from Silk City Fibers. Top has bust and waist darts, back zipper, scoop neck and set-in short sleeves. Top pattern is a modified combination of the 1000 Swing Dress, with the armhole and sleeve from the 200 Jacket from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection. Draft available as a free download. Variation tutorial on Youtube channel, The Weaver Sews, How to Combine Pattern Elements.
FANTASY IN FUR WALKING VEST 2020
Handwoven yoke, using novelty yarns and stripped fur, in a Theo Moorman Technique of inlay on a linen ground with polyester sewing thread tie down warps. Wool bouclé boiled knit body. Bias corduroy trim. Fully lined with an acetate jacquard. Pockets. Walking vest pattern a combination of the 600 Walking Vest and the 800 Zippered Vest with Collar from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection.
WINTER FLORALS SWING COAT WITH HOOD 2020
Handwoven and handdyed wool and loop mohair coat with wool weft. Twill variation loosely based on a draft from Handwoven Magazine, Issue 171, Sept/Oct 2014. The article, "Bright Herringbone Twill Towels" was authored by Linda Gettman.
Warps were handdyed in small batches in a crock pot with Cushing Acid Dyes. Fully lined with a silk sari. Coat design is a combination of the 400 Swing Coat with hood and inseam buttonholes variation from the 700/1700 Tunic from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection. The coat has inseam buttonholes and pockets. Bone buttons.
DRIFTWOOD MOTORCYCLE VEST WITH LEATHER TRIM 2020
Handwoven vest from leftover fabric from the Driftwood Swing Dress below. 8 shaft combination weave structure, with handdyed and commercially dyed rayons and silks for the warp. Original Draft. Rayon flake weft. Unlined. Trimmed with caviar lambskins. Pattern copied from a commercially purchased vest. This pattern was also used to create this vest.
DRIFTWOOD SWING DRESS 2020
Handwoven sleeveless swing dress, with semi-attached leather yoke with sleeves. Pockets. 8 shaft Combination weave structure, with handdyed and commercially dyed rayons and silks for the warp. Original Draft. Rayon flake weft. Fully lined with a silk sari. Leather yoke from caviar lambskins using the natural edge of the leather. Machine couched embroidery on the surface with added beads. Dress pattern is a combination of the 1000 Swing Dress, and the 200 Jacket armhole and sleeve, from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection.
VERTICAL BARRIERS SWING SKIRT 2020
Handwoven and partially hand dyed rayon and cotton warps in a combination 8 shaft weave structure, incorporating supplemental wefts. Worsted wool weft. Lined in sari cotton. Ultrasuede yoke. Pockets. Original draft.
Skirt pattern is a variation of the 1000 Swing Dress, from the Daryl Lancaster Pattern Collection.
CRIMP CLOTH VEST 2020
The cloth for this vest was woven with a "Crimp Cloth" technique using a cotton warp with an Orlon weft, and pull threads. Cloth was pulled and heat set into the crimped shape. This vest version was remade after an unsuccessful first attempt. The Crimp Cloth was created in a workshop with Dianne Totten.
PENDLETON MILL "WORMS" VEST 2019
Handwoven four shaft inlay (Theo Moorman technique). Wool, acrylic, Pendleton Woolen Mill blanket edges. Trimmed in cotton jacquard.
This vest was created using the leftover yardage from a coat that appeared in a feature, "Theo Moorman Goes Big", Handwoven Magazine, Issue 127 November/December 2005 Click here for the original coat.
The 800 vest pattern is from the Daryl Lancaster pattern collection.